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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.